The Story

In a study of cultural tourism which was presented during 3^rd Global Summit of Peace through Tourism reveals that the Mahsuri Mausoleum with its rich cultural and historical legends was one of the top two tourist attraction destination in Langkawi. (Rahim , et al., 1995). Langkawi, comprises of 99 islands that forms an archipelago, the land area cover approximately 478 square kilometres with a population of 86,000. As of 2009, 2,380,000 visitor has been recorded to visit Langkawi, approximately 27 times more of it population (Liu, et al., 2010). Langkawi was also recognised as the 52^nd UNESCO global network of national geopark on 1^st June 2007 (Norzaini , et al., 2011). The Kedah Historical society has already reported more than 30 version of the Mahsuri Myth (12, 1989).

 

Mahsuri was born to a Thai couple Pandak Maya and Mak Andam from Phuket who migrated to Langkawi. Langkawi was known as Koh Ka Wee to the Thais (The Work of the 2004/2005 API Fellows, 2007). She was said the be the most beautiful maiden in the whole of Langkawi and was later married to Wan Darus. (Mohamed, 2010). Wan Derus was called away by the Sultan of Kedah, Sultan Abdullah Mukarram Shah II in a battle against the Siamese.

 

During this time, Mahsuri befriended a traded who was also a poet. She would often ask him to recite poem and is frequently seen with him. Her mother in law was not very fond of seeing Mahsuri with a stranger and began spreading rumours to the villagers of here being an adulteress.

 

Mahsuri became a victim of conspiracy plotted against her was wrongfully put to death in 1819 or the year 1235 hijrab. (Ooi , 2006). The penalty for adultery at the time was death by stabbing. She was stabbed with knife to her abdomen but despite the sharpness of a knife, it would not puncture her abdomen. Mahsuri later said that she could only be killed with her family Keris. She also said that if she did commit adultery, she would bleed like any human being but if she was did not commit the adultery as accused, she would bleed white blood which will prove her purity, and then she would put a curse to the Langkawi Island that there shall be no peace and prosperity in the island for seven generations. (Mohamed, 2010).

 

Not long after her death, Siam invaded Langkawi. In a losing battle the village headmen who was also the father in law of Mahsuri, Datuk Seri Kerma Jaya has ordered the villages to burn their paddy field and granaries to cut the food supply to the Siam army shall they lose the battle. The remains of the paddy fields is now known as Padang Mat Sirat. The burnt rice is said to have been buried a few metres below ground but often appears on the surface after a rainy day.

 

After this incident, it is said that the family members of Mahsuri and Wan Darus moved back to Kamala, Phuket. Her son, Wan Arkem (Achem) married and had six children—two sons and four daughters. (12, 1989)

 

Sirintra Yayee also known as Wan Aishah bt Wan Nawawi, the seventh generation descendant of Mahsuri. Wan Aishah's lineage to Mahsuri was ascertained by the Kedah Museum and the Kedah Historical Society. Sirintra Yayee came back to Malaysia in the year 2000 when she was 14 and was received by then Malaysia Prime Minister Dr. Mahathir Mohamed (12, 1989).

 

According to Kamala resident from Phuket Heritage Website, the genealogy of Mahsuri's descendant is:

 

           “ Sirintra is the eldest child of Nawawi and Sumaini,

              the son of Wan Hashim @Chern Yayee ,

              the son of Wan Husin and Khatijah,

              the Son of Tuk Akil

              the son of Wan Hakim And Aishah,

              the son of Mahsuri and Wan Derus ”

The Remains

Mahsuri's tomb also known as Makam Mahsuri is situated in the Village of Mawat, some 12 Kilometres from Kuah Town. Her tomb, which was enshrined by the villagers, has been relocated numerous times and the exact location of its origin may not be known (Ooi , 2006). Initially her burial site was without a tomb, its was Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra, the first prime minister of Malaysia who ordered the construction of the tomb. He was then a district officer and Mawat fall under his jurisdiction (Liu, et al., 2010).

 

The tomb is now a museum complex, beside Mahsuri’s tomb, you can see the house that she was said to live in, a well where there water is said to have mystical powers which Mahsuri used to bathe and wash, Kedah Kampung Houses and an open hall or theatre with a band playing local folk songs and the tale of Mahsuri. While touring the museum you will witness dioramas depicting the life of Mahsuri, and some evidence of the story taking place such as the Keris that killed Mahsuri and her actual tomb stone. You will also find two mini halls where locals perform Caklempung and Gamelan.

 

Appendix

(Anon., n.d.)

Image from : Author

Image from : Author

Diorama 1 depicting Mahsuri's Life.

Image from : Author

Diorama 2 depicting Mahsuri's Life

Image from : Author

Burnt rice or Beras Terbakar in Padang Mat Sirat

(Mustafa, n.d.)

Burnt Rice collected from the field

(Mustafa, n.d.)

Mahsuri’s House

Image from : Author

Mahsuri’s Well

Image from : Author

Sirintra Yayee also known as Wan Aishah bt Wan Nawawi When she was 12

Image From : (Mustafa, n.d.)

Sirintra Yayee was presented portrait of Mahsuri during her visit

Source: (Mustafa, n.d.)

The Family Lineage as displayed in the museum

Source: Author

 

References

12, P. N., 1989. Hari Sastera Kedah. Darulaman, 5-6 Aug 1989. Kedah, s.n.
Anon., n.d. All About Langkawi. [Online]
Available at: http://allaboutlangkawi.blogspot.com/2011/01/mahsuri-tomb-makam-mahsuri.html
[Accessed 27 9 2014].
Liu, O. P., Yusoff, N. H. & Halim, S. A., 2010. Tracking The 'Kawi' Spirit. Akademika, Volume 80, pp. 55-68.
Mohamed, B., 2010. Regional Conference on Tourism Research - The State of the Art and its Sustainability. Penang, Universiti Sains Malaysia.
Mustafa, M., n.d. The End Of 7 Generations. [Online]
Available at: http://muzzalifahmustafa5b.blogspot.com/p/the-end-of-7-generations.html
[Accessed 27 9 2014].
Norzaini , A., Abdul Halim, S., Ong , P. L. & Komoo, I., 2011. The Langkawi Global Geopark: local community’s perspectives on public education. International Journal of Heritage Studies, 17(3), pp. 261-279.
Ooi , G. L., 2006. Mahsuri’s curse—globalisation and tourist development in Pulau Langkawi. GeoJournal, 66(3), pp. 199-209.
Rahim , A., Mustafa, R. A., Mohamed , B. & Sia, R., 1995. EXPERIENCING CULTURAL TOURISM THROUGH THE IDENTIFICATION OF CULTURAL ROUTES WITHIN THE IMT-GT. Pattaya, s.n.
The Work of the 2004/2005 API Fellows, 2007. Reflections on the Human Condition: Change, Conflict and Modernity. 1st ed. Bangkok: LDSK&COMPANY CO., LTD..

 

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A little bit of History.

Pangkor Island used to be a Dutch Fort in the 17th Century. The Dutch used Pulau Pangkor as an outpost to control trades in the Malay Peninsula. The fort was built by the Dutch in 1670 for storage and protection of tin supplies from the sultanate of Perak. The fort was destroyed in 1690 by the Malays who were discontent with the methods used by the Dutch in obtaining minerals. It was rebuilt by the Dutch in 1743 and a force of 60 soldiers was placed to guard the fort until 1748, when the force was disbanded and the fort abandoned. The Dutch called the collection of island as The Dindings.

The Dutch Fort or Kota Belanda

Besides the Dutch, Pangkor island also drew the attention of Pirates who roams the seas around the straights of Malacca. They robbed boats and ships in the Straits of Malacca and hid themselves on the hills on the island.

On the waterfront at Teluk Gedong, 3km south of Pangkor Town, is this mammoth stone carved (Batu Bersurat – Carved Inscription ) with the symbol of the Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; VOC) and other graffiti, including a faint depiction of a tiger stealing a kid. Supposedly, the child of a local European dignitary disappeared while playing near the rock; the Dutch liked the idea of a tiger abduction, although she was more likely nabbed by disenchanted locals.

The mainland is know as Lumur (under the district of Seri Manjung) is the Royal Naval base of Malaysia. A 30 minutes ferry rides from the Lumut Jetty get you to  Pangkor Island. The locals here are mainly involved in fishery, tourism and some in the boat building industry at Sungai Pinang Kecil

The Ferry ride to Pulau Pangkor from The Lumut Jetty is approximately 30 minutes. To get to Pualu Pangkor you need to get down on the second stip ans the first stop is a fishing vilage .

Attraction and Activities  in Pulau Pangkor.

Dutch Fort and the Tiger Rock - the only remaining piece of history from  the Dutch era. The fort is about 3km's south of Pangkor Town at Teluk Gedong.

Diving – Pulau Jarak : the best diving island in Pangkor region. The water here is crystal clear up to 20 m for 70% of the year. Located 34 km Southwest of Lumut.This tiny island (barely 8 hectares in size) rises 50m above sea level and is covered with lush vegetation, where many sea eagles nest. There is no beach on Pulau Jarak, only granite sloping down to the sandy sea bed with small patches of stony, encrusting and soft corals. The island's boulder-strewn coastline makes it virtually inaccessible, leaving Pulau Jarak's pristine wonders mostly unexplored. Its underwater enchantment includes brightly coloured cup corals, football sized Pink-mouth Murex, purple Crown-of Thorns Starfish and many other sea creatures in a multitude of colours, shapes and sizes. The lure of this island beckons divers to penetrate its natural barricades and probe into the mysterious and astounding underwater realm that Pulau Jarak has to offer.

Fishing - Pulau Sembilan the fishing haven with 13 islands to hunt for all kinds of fishes.

Hornbill feeding - Hand feeding the wild birds at 6:30PM everyday near Seagull Lodge.

Foo Lin King Temple - Taoist temple just off the main road at Sungai Pinang Besar, about 1.5 km north of Pangkor Town. The brightly colored temple is well maintained in a beautiful garden setting. Perched on the roof are animals depicting horoscope signs. There is a fish pond and a turtle pool . The temple is set against a hill backdrop. Creeping up the hill is a mini version of the Great Wall of China with impressive details.

Suspension Bridge -  A sign post on the side of the Pasir Bogak road signals the start of a short walk into the jungle to an old suspension bridge

Island Hopping – Available from most beach activity operators.

Pulau Giam – A popular snorkeling spot. The island is fronting Teluk Nipah . You can rent a canoe and paddle across or a 5 minute boat ride.

Coral Island – Similar to Giam Island. Its right beside Pulau Giam

Teluk Segadas – You can either take a  boat or 20 minutes hike there. Probably the most beautiful non private beach in Pangkor.You can camp here if you want to.

Water Activities - The usual scene of Banana Boats and Jet Ski’s . The operates can be found all around beach sides but mainly concentrated in Bogak Beach and Nipah Beach.

Wild Lives

With a little effort you can spot the below wildlife's

- Mudskippers

- Turtles

- Monkeys

- Eagles

- Hornbills

- Sea Otters

- Monitor Lizards

- Boar

- Crested Argus

Hornbills

Puffer Fish or locally known as Ikan Buntal

Sea Urchins

Source : MIR , Virtual Tourist , Journey Malaysia . Lonely Planet

Kuala Lumpur Circa 1900

Kuala Lumpur Circa 1880

Ready for some history lesson? All rights class, today's lesson is about Kuala Lumpur. Founded in 1857 at the convergence of the Gombak and Klang rivers. In English, the name literally means "muddy confluence". The settlement started when a member of the Selangor royal family, Raja Abdullah, opened up the Klang Valley for tin prospectors. 87 Chinese prospectors went up the river Klang and began prospecting in the Ampang area, which was then jungle. Despite 69 of them dying due to the pestilential conditions, a thriving tin mine was established. This naturally attracted merchants who traded basic provisions to the miners in return for some of the tin. The traders set up shop at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers. The tin they discovered in Ampang attracted more miners and KL quickly became a brawling, noisy, violent boomtown, ruled over by so-called ‘secret societies’, a network of criminal gangs. 

The local sultan appointed a proxy (known as Kapitan China) to bring the unruly Chinese fortune-seekers and their secret societies into line. The successful candidate, Yap Ah Loy (Kapitan China from 1868 to ’85), took on the task with such ruthless relish that he’s now credited as the founder of KL. According to legend, Yap Ah Loy was able to keep the peace with just six policemen, such was the respect for his authority in the community.

Yap Ah Loy - The Man

Loy had only just established control when local sultans went to war over the throne of Perak and its tin mines, marking the start of the Malay Civil War. KL was swept up in the conflict and burnt to the ground in 1881. This allowed the British government representative, Frank Swettenham, to push through a radical new town plan which transferred the central government from Klang to KL. By 1886 a railway line linked KL to Klang. A year later a new city was constructed in fire-resistant brick, and in 1896 KL became the capital of the newly formed Federated Malay States. From that moment on the city developed quickly. The new capital attracted people of many different cultures and the city soon became a melting pot of Asian cultures. Special areas were erected in the city, and in every area a different culture group lived. For instance, even in that time, you had a Chinese district, and Indian district, a district in which primarily Europeans (especially the English) lived and a district in which the local 'Malay' lived.

When the Malay Civil War broke out a few years later. Local sultans were fighting for the throne of Perak, and KL, swept up in the conflict, burned to the ground. The merchants of the Straits Settlements, concerned that the war would ruin their prosperity, asked Britain to intervene. Britain was initially reluctant to get involved with internal politics, but rumors that the merchants would turn to Germany instead sparked a fear in London that Britain could lose its tin interests in Malaya. London sent in a new territorial governor, Andrew Clarke, to apprise the situation. Clarke gathered the feuding princes aboard his ship off the island of Pangkor, and convinced them to sign a document known as the Pangkor Agreement. The Agreement ended the war, established a new Sultan of Perak, and -- most significantly -- called for the presence of a British Resident "who must be asked and acted upon on all questions other than those touching Malay religion and custom." This was the beginning of a dramatically increased British involvement in Malaya, one that would eventually place Kuala Lumpur at center of history.

The British residential system quickly spread. Frank Swettenham, the Resident of Selangor, chose Kuala Lumpur as his administrative center and oversaw the rebirth of the city, ordering the construction of new buildings using brick. In 1896, Swettenham convinced the Sultans of four states to unite under the umbrella of the Federated Malay States (FMS), and Kuala Lumpur was chosen as the capital. The city became a classic center of British colonialism. Sharply uniformed officers and bureaucrats administered the FMS from beneath the distinctive copper domes of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building. In the off-hours, they played cricket on the field of the Padang and sought liquid comfort in the Selangor Club, where only whites were allowed. Unsurprisingly, the club became a symbol of British imperialism and oppression and fueled the ever-growing dreams of independence. At midnight on August 30, 1957, amidst a crowd of tens of thousands, British soldiers finally lowered the Union Jack for the last time in front of the Selangor Club. Interestingly, the old British watering hole would become the meeting place of the new Malaysian elite. 

Royal Selangor Club / Then known as Spotted Dogs Club Circa 1920

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building (The Govt Offices Then) Circa 1920

With independence, KL was poised for its greatest transformation ever. One of the city's darkest days came in 1969, when civil unrest - spawned by racial tensions -- swept through the city, sparking a state of emergency that would last for two years. Bolstered by a growing economy and a sincere desire for cooperation between Malaysia's ethnic groups, the tensions subsided, and in 1974 the city was given the status of Federal Territory. The last 20 years have seen Kuala Lumpur undergo phenomenal growth, with a population explosion of almost 50 percent, not to mention development on a monumental scale. One of the world's tallest buildings, the Petronas Towers, now rise above the city of 1.4 million. If those 87 Chinese miners could have poled their way 140 years up the river of time, they probably wouldn't recognize the legacy that began where the two muddy rivers met.

Central Market / Pasar Seni Circa 1920

Market Street/Clarke Road Bridge c. 1910

Java Bridge (Java Street/Mountbatten Road/Jalan Tun Perak) under construction over Klang River, Kuala Lumpur Circa 1888

Kandar (pole) rojak seller at fountain (Merdeka Square) Circa 1900

Steam train at Kuala Lumpur railway station Circa 1915 

Ice water vendor, Kuala Lumpur Circa 1900

Kuala Lumpur Circa 1920

Madjid Jamek 1909

Timeline history Kuala Lumpur 

• 1857: 87 tin miners find rich sources of tin around the area. 

• 1862: Kuala Lumpur grows rapidly. New miners from over the world settle here, with many conflicts and gang wars as a result. 

• 1869: Yap Ah Loy becomes Chinese Kapitan of Kuala Lumpur and succeeds to establish law and order in Kuala Lumpur in just a few years. 

• 1880: Kuala Lumpur becomes a modern town when the British representative Frank Swettenham develops the first city plan. 

• 1887: Kuala Lumpur becomes the capital of the state of Selangor. 1896: The Federated Malay States is formed by uniting the Sultans of four states. Kuala Lumpur becomes capital of the Federated Malay States. 

• 1946: Kuala Lumpur becomes capital in the Federation of Malaya. 

• 1957: Malaysia celebrates its independence on August 31 after 151 years of British rule. Kuala Lumpur becomes capital of the Independent Federation of Malaya. 

• 1963: Kuala Lumpur becomes capital of Malaysia. 

• 1974: Kuala Lumpur becomes a Federal Territory (Wilayah Persekutuan) with its own administration. 1999: The federal administrative capital of Malaysia moves to Putrajaya. 

• 2007: Kuala Lumpur celebrates its 50th year as capital of Malaysia and Malaysia its 50th year of independence.

Sources : Farah Laida / RSMurthi / Lonely Planet / WonderfulMalaysia / Geographia

The lake that is full folklores  from ancient civilization to mystical creatures.The 12.5 acres which is made up of 12 lakes is only second to Lake Bera, also in Pahang. The aborigines suggest that once upon a time both of these lakes were connected.

The Jakun Home 

There were reports of occasional sightings of the monster by the locals, indigenous and even  tourist but unfortunately there is no scientific evidence of the  existence of it. .Naga Seri Gumum or the Malaysian Loch Ness Monster is believed to inhibit  this Lake. 

Now off course, it has to be guarding someone or something right? It is said that "Naga Tasik Chini ( Lake Chini Dragon) guard a sunken ancient Khmer City. The city dates back to the 5th Century  The existence of Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) A species of lotus from Lake Chini which is the same species from many ancient Asian sites such as Angkor Wat (ancient Khmer,Cambodia) goes the further excites the existence of the hidden city.The lake is filled with blooming lotus from the period of August to September. The are also some that believe that the Lotus was brought to the lake by a monk from Khmer with a group of Khmer refuges that fled the country during war. As the lake resembles Ton le Sap, they've decided to stay in Lake Chini. During the monsoonal floods, from October to January, the lotus would die but their fertilized new seeds would litter the lake bottom waiting the dry season to bloom again.

The Sacred Lotus

The land is inhibited by the aborigines of the Jakun and Semelai tribe. They still live their old traditional ways  and very much love the nature. Here's another interesting fact, the Jakun and Semelai, uses language that contains Khmer words. (Hint , Hint). Archaeological finding also traces artefacts of Khmer origins. There are even a couple of books written specifically to address the ancient civilization and the Chini Dragon and a few group of specific interest are still researching the activities in Lake Chini.

About 200 different species of birds, 138 species of flora, and 144 species of fresh water fish call this their home. The list includes  macaca, Malayan soft shell turtle, white handed gibbon and spiny terapin.

Macaca

White Handed Gibbon

Spiny Terapin

Lake Chini is just one of the gift of Mother Nature to Malaysia. There are many like it but Lake Chini will always be a special lake with its mystical stories. You will love being here, who know, The Naga Seri Gumum may want to bless you with is appearance



Pictures Credits : Pahang Tourism / Ecology Asia

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The Large or Thick Crusted Apam Balik

Apam Balik - in direct translation means Turnover Pancake or Pancake Foldover is a local street food that you can find almost anywhere in Malaysia. Its also know by other names ; Ban Jian Kuih, Chin Loong Pau, Martabak Manis, Terang Bulan, Apam Pulau Pinang or Kuih Haji. You can find Apam Balik in almost any Night Markets, roadside stalls and from motorbikes with a mobile stall - mobile stall if you will.

The special Griddle to make Apam Balik

Besides Malaysia, you can fins this popular street food in Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei and Thailand. With their own variation and touch. In Malaysia, you can find 2 types of Apam Bali, The Large and Thick ones (there also large thisn crust ones , super crispy) and the small and thin crust.

Thin Crusted Apam Balik

Apam Balik's batter is made from flour, sugar, baking powder, bicarbonate soda, eggs, water and butter. The traditional filling of Apam Balik consist of grounf peanuts, sugar and sweet cream corn, off course you can find other fillings such as Nutella, Strawberry Jam and banana now.

The origin of the Apam Balik is yet to confirmed, whilst some claims that is a Peranakan dish and some to be East Malaysian, one thing that all of us can agree is, Apam Balik is definitely of the best Street food you can find in Malaysia.